WA 94 · Wine Advocate · Robert M. Parker Jr.
Caymus has one of the most enviable track records of any California winery. Having followed their Cabernet Sauvignons since the early seventies, I find it remarkable that this winery has never gone through a slump. Not many wineries, anywhere in the world, can match the Wagner family's consistent record of success. Although Charlie and Chuck Wagner probably won't admit it, I have the impression they feel white wine is meant for rinsing your mouth out before drinking their reds. Cabernet Sauvignon has always been king at Caymus. This is one winery where you can open a 1974, 1975, or 1976 with confidence, knowing the wine will still be loaded with ripe fruit. The Caymus Special Selection is one of the most renowned luxury cuvees of Cabernet Sauvignon in California. The price of $100 a bottle is bold, controversial, and has undoubtedly made more than a few enemies. Nevertheless, for a decadent, lavishly oaky, explosively rich, intense, soft as silk style of Cabernet Sauvignon, it is hard to beat. Never unapproachable, the Special Selections (especially since the mid-eighites) taste almost too delicious when released. This has given rise to criticism that the wines will not last. While modern day vintages of Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon are not as concentrated as earlier vintages (i.e, the 1975 and 1976), this is still a wine that will endure 15 or more years of cellaring. The 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection (a February, 1996 release) is superior to the 1991 and 1990. The 1992 displays an opaque ruby/purple color, followed by huge, full-throttle aromatics offering a blast of sweet, toasty new oak combined with exceptional red and black fruits. Full-bodied, rich, and concentrated, with not a hard edge to be found, this low acid, fat, delicious Cabernet will be drinkable upon its release; it will last for 12-15 years.