Hubert Lamy Criots-Batard-Montrachet 2012, 750ml

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"The 2012 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is a significant release for Olivier Lamy as it is the first “high density” release, even though that is not stated on the label. His 500-meter square holding of short-pruned goblet vines lie adjacent to Lalou Bize-Leroy’s, someone who Olivier cited as a great influence on his thinking ten years ago when he conceived the project. Naturally, he could not do everything in one fell swoop and therefore he interpolated the old vines planted in 1975 with fledglings over 300-meter square and the remaining 200-meter square five years later. It is only now with the 2012 that both have come “on-line.” It has a very precise, crisp nose with subtle scents of gypsum and flint that unfurl beautifully in the glass, later joined by estuarine hints. It is bridled with astonishing delineation. The palate is clean and very fresh on the entry with perfectly judged acidity and it feels just so endearingly harmonious in the mouth. It is supremely elegant with almond and hazelnut at the front of the mouth and a hint of shaved ginger on the finish that fans out like the Amazon delta. This is just fabulous. " WA 96+